Positano in 3 Days: Cliffside Views, Coastal Walks & Slow Travel

Positano looks like a painting—pastel houses layered on cliffs, pocket-sized beaches, boats moving slowly across the sea, and bougainvillea spilling from balconies. But beyond the photos, it’s a village best explored calmly: waking up early, following the light through narrow alleys, and pausing for coffee with a view. This guide is based on a 3-day stay in late May, a shoulder season sweet spot when most places are open, the water is warm enough for swimming, and crowds are manageable if you start early.

🧭 Getting There & Getting Around

• Naples to Positano: The fastest route is the Campania Express (or Circumvesuviana) to Sorrento, followed by either the SITA bus or a ferry. Ferries are smooth and scenic; buses are cheaper but packed.
• Salerno to Positano: If you're coming from the south, ferries from Salerno are direct and less crowded.
• Once in Positano:
  • Everything is uphill or downhill. Comfortable shoes are essential.
  • Use the orange Mobility Amalfi Coast buses to move between upper and lower Positano (tickets from tabacchi shops).
  • Water taxis and ferries connect Positano to Praiano, Amalfi, Capri, and Sorrento.
  • Book private transfers if you’re carrying heavy luggage. Many hotels have porters who meet you at the pier or Via Cristoforo Colombo.

🏨 Where We Stayed

We chose a small guesthouse near Via Pasitea, sandwiched between the upper and lower halves of the village. From here it was a 10-minute walk to the main beach (Spiaggia Grande) and a short bus ride up to the higher viewpoints. If you want sea views without luxury hotel prices, the mid-tier guesthouses around Via Pasitea and Via Marconi offer the best balance: balconies, quiet mornings, and easy access to cafés.

✨ Day 1 – Arrivals, Coastline Views & Sunset Ferry

Morning: Arrival & Check-In

• Drop luggage with your hotel if the room isn’t ready.
• Start with a slow espresso at Caffè Positano overlooking the sea. The outdoor tables catch the morning light, and it’s a calm introduction to the village.

Afternoon: Spiaggia Grande & Marina Life

• Walk down to Spiaggia Grande via Via dei Mulini.
• Rent sunbeds or just stroll along the shoreline to get a feel for the village layout.
• Have lunch at Chez Black or Buca di Bacco—both are classics for seafood pasta or pizza near the beach.

Late Afternoon: Ferry to Amalfi or Praiano

• Take a short ferry to Amalfi (25 minutes) or Praiano (15 minutes). The ride is scenic and shows Positano from the sea—a perfect photo opportunity.
• Stroll Amalfi’s piazza or visit the Duomo before heading back.

Evening: Dinner on Via Pasitea

• Head to Ristorante Saraceno d’Oro for pizza, seafood, and limoncello.
• End the day with a gelato from Collina Bakery and sit along Via dei Mulini to watch the village lights turn gold.

🌅 Day 2 – Walks, Boat Tours & Fornillo Beach

Morning: Path of the Gods (Il Sentiero degli Dei)

• Take the early bus to Nocelle (or hire a transfer).
• The trail to Bomerano takes about 2.5 hours with breathtaking views over the Amalfi coastline.
• Pack water, sunscreen, and proper shoes; the trail is rocky but manageable if you’re used to moderate hikes.

Afternoon: Fornillo Beach

• Take the cliffside path from Spiaggia Grande to Fornillo Beach (10–15 minutes).
• Fornillo is quieter than the main beach and has relaxed beach clubs like Da Ferdinando. Order spaghetti alle vongole or grilled fish with a glass of cold Falanghina.

Late Afternoon: Boat Tour

• Book a sunset boat ride (group or private). Many tours include Prosecco, fresh fruit, and stops near small coves.
• If you want to swim, ask for a daytime excursion that includes Li Galli islands.

Evening: Dinner in Upper Positano

• Dine at Da Vincenzo or Next2 (reservations recommended).
• Walk up to Via Cristoforo Colombo after dinner for one of the best nighttime views over Positano.

🌴 Day 3 – Markets, Lemon Groves & Day Trips

Morning: Shopping & Local Tastes

• Explore the artisan shops on Via dei Mulini and Via Pasitea:
  • Hand-painted ceramics
  • Leather sandals (some shops custom-fit them in 30 minutes)
  • Linen dresses and Positano beachwear
• Grab a citrus granita or cappuccino at Collina Bakery.

Midday: Day Trip Options

• Capri by ferry (1 hour): explore Marina Grande, Anacapri, or the Blue Grotto if seas are calm.
• Praiano & Fiordo di Furore: for quieter coves and cliffside views.
• Amalfi & Ravello: pair a quick ferry with a bus up to Ravello for villa gardens and sweeping terraces.

Late Afternoon: Lemon Experience

• Book a tasting tour or lunch at a lemon farm (e.g., Il Giardiniello near Amalfi or family-run groves in Minori). You’ll learn how limoncello and marmalades are made.

Evening: Final Dinner & Night Stroll

• For a finale, dine at Il Ritrovo (Nocelle) or La Tagliata for a set-course, family-style feast with views.
• Walk down the steps at night—Positano is most magical when the crowds thin and you can hear the sea in the dark.

☕ Coffee, Snacks & Sweets

• Collina Bakery – Cappuccino, pastries, granita, and lemon cake.
• Bar Internazionale – Local bar at the top of Positano; great for an afternoon Aperol Spritz.
• Emporio Sirenuse – Stylish café inside Le Sirenuse hotel (reservations recommended); ideal for espresso with a view.
• Delicatessen (Via dei Mulini) – Grab takeaway mozzarella, olives, focaccia, and a bottle of wine for a balcony dinner.

🛶 Boat Rides & Beach Clubs

• Spiaggia Grande: Main beach, busiest, but central for ferries and rentals.
• Fornillo Beach: Quieter alternative, accessible by footpath.
• Arienzo Beach Club: Reachable by shuttle boat; book sunbeds and lunch in advance.
• Da Adolfo: Iconic beach restaurant (reachable by boat with a red fish flag); book weeks ahead in high season.

🎨 Shopping & Souvenirs

• Linen boutiques on Via dei Mulini.
• Custom leather sandals at Safari or Capriccio.
• Hand-painted ceramics at Ceramiche Assunta.
• Local limoncello and citrus soaps from family-owned shops.

💶 Budgeting for Positano

• Accommodation: €180–€450 per night for mid-range guesthouses, €600+ for luxury hotels.
• Meals:
  • Coffee & pastry: €4–€7
  • Beach club lunch: €20–€35 per person
  • Sit-down dinner with wine: €40–€80 per person
• Transport:
  • Ferry: €18–€30 (one-way, depending on route)
  • Local bus: €1.50–€2 per ride
  • Private transfer to/from Naples: €120–€150

🧳 Packing Tips

• Comfortable walking shoes (Positano has over 1,500 steps).
• Light layers for sea breezes.
• Swimwear, cover-ups, and a hat for boat days.
• A foldable tote for shopping and beach essentials.
• Power bank—photos will drain your battery fast.

📸 Quick Photo Spots

• Via Cristoforo Colombo – Classic Positano postcard view.
• Sentiero degli Dei – Wide coastal panoramas.
• Fornillo Pathway – Cliffside angles with the sea below.
• Main Pier at Sunset – Capture Positano glowing behind the boats.

Final Thoughts

Positano is best enjoyed slowly. Plan one highlight per day, then leave room for aimless walks, quiet markets, and spontaneous swims. If you want fewer crowds, visit in late April, May, late September, or early October. The light is softer, the water is still warm, and the village feels more like the small fishing town it once was.

Take the steps slowly, pause often, and eat everything. Positano is a place that lingers long after you’ve left. Enjoy every view, every plate of pasta, every salty breeze—it’s the full Amalfi experience.