Our Time in Tallinn: Cozy Lanes and Cold Mornings

Explore medieval towers, scenic cafés, Gothic churches, and snow-dusted parks in Estonia's fairytale capital.

So, you're thinking about a trip to Tallinn? Let me just say, do it. Seriously. It's one of those cities that feels like you've stepped right onto a medieval movie set. The moment you walk through the Old Town's ancient gates, you feel like you've left the modern world completely behind and traveled back in time.

Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe (it's a UNESCO World Heritage site).

Tallinn was never on our bucket list, but after visiting, I don't know why it wasn't on it. It was one of the best medieval towns we have ever visited, and it gave Game of Thrones vibes. It all started when my husband and I were looking for some places to visit in March, mostly for our workation. We checked flights on Ryanair and found the cheapest flight from Berlin to Tallinn. We didn't think about it much and said, "Let's discover Estonia and later Helsinki," both of which we could reach just by crossing the Baltic Sea.

We went to Estonia for five days, with the fourth and fifth days as workdays. For the other three, we just wandered through this amazing medieval world, a maze of cobblestone streets, old-school towers, and cozy cafes. It's not just a stuffy historical place, though. The city has a really great, relaxed vibe. This is basically our playbook for how to have a few awesome and chill days exploring the best of Tallinn.

🌤️ Day 1: Old Town Magic, Historic Views & A Cozy Baltic Welcome

We landed in Tallinn after an early-morning flight from Berlin. It was March, so the air was chilly. We had our Airbnb booked right in the center of the Old Town with a view of the city wall, and since we had the whole day ahead of us, we checked in, freshened up, and headed straight to the heart of it all: Tallinn's Old Town.

Maiasmokk Café

We started our day with breakfast at Tallinn's oldest cafe, Café Maiasmokk. It has been open since 1864. With its grand old-world interior, chandeliers, and window displays filled with handmade marzipan, it felt like stepping back in time. The best thing is the beautiful decor inside the café has not been changed for over 100 years now. We ordered spinach & cheese pastry, baked egg bread bowl, chocolate cake slice, and coffee and sat by the window watching early-morning locals and tourists stroll by. They also have a dedicated museum, which is known as the Marzipan Room.

Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats)

After an amazing breakfast, it was time for us to explore the streets of Tallinn Old Town. We went to Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats), located in the heart of Tallinn Old Town. Even in mid-March, it had a charm that didn't need flowers or summer crowds. The Gothic Town Hall building, dating back to the 13th century, stood tall and moody. The building is surrounded by restaurants and cafes. In summer, you get to experience various cultures and events such as concerts and open-air markets, and in winter it becomes lively because of the Christmas market. We circled the square and admired the colorful façades, feeling the scale of history that echoed through the cobblestones.

Saint Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Our next stop was the most stunning church in Tallinn. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It is built at the top of Toompea Hill and has the black onion domes and intricate mosaic details, which make it the most striking church in the city. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire. The Russian Orthodox influence is evident here, both in the architecture and the peaceful interior. Entry is free, and it offers a very different vibe from the Lutheran churches around.

Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform

After visiting Saint Alexander Nevsky Cathedral on Toompea Hill, we walked to Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform. We stayed around 20 to 30 minutes to take photos and rest. From here we walked another 7 to 10 minutes to Patkuli for a wider angle.

Patkuli Viewing Platform

Next, we went to the Patkuli Viewing Platform. It's a must-visit for panoramic views of Tallinn's red rooftops, the medieval city wall, and church spires. From the Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform, it's about a 5–10 minute walk. The climb up the Patkuli steps was short but rewarding. The terrace offers a wide view of the Old Town and the harbor.

Balti Jaama Turg

Our next stop was the lively Balti Jaama Turg. It is located just outside the Old Town walls. The market is a perfect contrast to the medieval side of Tallinn. It is urban, buzzing, and full of life. There are three levels of vendors: fresh produce, street food stalls, antiques, and Estonian design shops. It is a great spot for picking up snacks, browsing vintage finds, or buying some warm mittens and local souvenirs.

VLND Burger

For a quick lunch, we went to VLND Burger in Old Town. They're known for smashed-style burgers, but we ordered fries and beers. The atmosphere was cozy.

Museum of Medieval Torture Instruments

While wandering around Old Town, we saw people handing out pamphlets for the Museum of Medieval Torture Instruments. We went back and forth for a while, unsure if it was worth a stop. After some thought, we decided to give it a go and visit the museum. The Museum of Medieval Torture Instruments is in the heart of Tallinn's Old Town, a few steps from Town Hall. It is eerie and fascinating, dark inside, and filled with grim exhibits on medieval punishment and torture. The displays give a deeper sense of the era's harsh justice. We left both horrified and oddly intrigued.

Sessel Speakeasy

We ended our day at Sessel Speakeasy. We loved the whole vibe. It felt calm and low-lit. We ordered cocktails, and they were good. After that we headed back to our Airbnb and called it a night.

🌨️ Day 2: Towers, Gardens & A Long Walk into Tallinn's Quiet Corners

It's the second day for us in Tallinn, and we started the morning slowly. The streets were still quiet, and the morning was chilly. We bundled up and headed out in search of breakfast and new places to explore.

Carissimi Kohvik

We started our day with breakfast at Carissimi Kohvik, which was just very near to our Airbnb and is located right next to the historic medieval Town Hall. It was a quiet local café that instantly felt like a hidden gem. The interior was minimal, calming, and gave the vibe of coziness. Their homemade desserts were fresh and delicious.

Munkadetagune Torn (Tower Behind the Monks) and Hellemann Tower (Hellmani Korts)

After breakfast, we went to Munkadetagune Torn, one of the medieval towers on Tallinn's Old City Wall. It sits behind St. Catherine's former monastery, hence the name "Tower Behind the Monks." Entry was €5 during our visit, and the ticket included a short walk along the wall and access to the tower's sections.

Hellemann Tower stands at the end of Müürivahe Street. It hosts a small art gallery and connects to Munkadetagune Torn via a wooden walkway that runs above Müürivahe.

Viru Gate

Next, we passed through the famous Viru Gate, one of the most recognizable landmarks. These twin towers once guarded the city's main entrance and today lead into the heart of Old Town. The entrance was lined with flower stalls, and it was so beautiful and serene to look at.

The War of Independence Victory Column

After a short walk from Viru Gate, we reached the War of Independence Victory Column, which is located in Freedom Square. This tall glass cross is a tribute to Estonians who fought for their independence from 1918 to 1920. It's modern and opened in June 2009. The height of the pillar is 23.5 meters, and it has 143 glass panels.

Commander's Garden & Museum Tower

We then went to Commander's Garden, which is located next to the Museum Tower. This area is beautifully landscaped, quiet, and slightly elevated. It offers a nice breather between landmarks. The nearby tower adds a touch of medieval grandeur to the otherwise modern surroundings.

Danish King's Garden & The Three Monks

Our next stop was the Danish King's Garden. It's a peaceful courtyard bordered by walls and towers. This place is legendary because it's said to be the birthplace of the Danish flag. The story is that when the Danish king, Valdemar II, was losing a battle here, this flag came down from the sky. Its appearance was seen as a sign that helped turn the tide of the battle, leading to a Danish victory. There are the sculptures of three monks in the garden, which is the modern addition created by the Estonian sculptor Tauno Kangro. We spent some time here admiring the surroundings of the garden.

Governor's Garden & Riigikogu (Estonian Parliament)

We then went to Governor's Garden, a quiet, formal public park located on Toompea Hill. It also serves as a beautiful and calm foreground to the impressive Toompea Castle. The castle itself is the home of the Riigikogu, the Parliament of Estonia.

Viru Lokaal

It was a mid-afternoon, and we needed a break. We went to Viru Lokaal, which was located in Tallinn Old Town right on the bustling Viru Street. It has great food with affordable prices. We ordered chicken wings with beer and wine.

🌨️ Day 3: Parks and Palace

It was our last day in Tallinn before we headed to Helsinki, so we kept it slow. We walked the cobblestone streets and stopped by a few places we had missed.

Kofeman restaurant/cafe/bar

We started the day with breakfast at Kofeman. It was a beautiful café with a cozy interior. We were lucky to get a window seat; the place was full. We ordered coffee and cake.

St. Catherine's Passage (Katariina käik)

After a sweet breakfast, we began our stroll at St. Catherine's Passage. This narrow lane dates back roughly 700 years and runs between Vene Street and Müürivahe, along the wall of the former Dominican monastery. There are small workshops where artisans were working on ceramics, glass, and textiles behind the doors.

Hell Hunt Pub

We had our lunch at Hell Hunt Pub. It's a popular Old Town pub among locals and visitors. The atmosphere was cozy, and prices were reasonable. The menu leans toward pub classics with local beers on tap, making it a solid midday stop before more walking.

Kadriorg Park & Palace

After lunch, we then decided to take a long walk to Kadriorg Park, which took around 40 minutes to reach. You can also take Tram 1 or Tram 3 from the Old Town to reach Kadriorg, which takes around 30 minutes. The Kadriorg Park is one of Tallinn's largest and most beautiful green spaces. Even in March, without the flowers in full bloom, the park felt regal and serene. There is a Kadriorg Palace, which is located at the heart of the park. The palace was built by Russian Tsar Peter I in 1718 for his wife, Catherine. I was mesmerized by its brilliant red and white colors, which, of course, are the first things you'll notice there. It's a perfect place to see a more peaceful and grand side of Tallinn.

Inside, the palace serves as the Kadriorg Art Museum, filled with centuries of art from Western Europe and Russia.

Kehrwieder Saiakang Chocolaterie

Back in Old Town, we stopped at Kehrwieder Saiakang for coffee and chocolate. It was a simple, sweet break before the evening.

Took a night stroll in the Old Town

We ended the afternoon with a slow walk through the lanes. With lights on, Tallinn felt cozy and a bit fairytale-like.

Beer House

We wrapped up the day with dinner and local beer at the lively Beer House on Dunkri Street. I loved the interiors and felt like I was stepping into a medieval world. It has a rustic and beer-hall style, with warm lighting, wood paneling, and the comforting smell of malt and grilled food. They brew their own beer on-site following the German recipes right there. We tried a few house-brewed beers and shared a big plate of garlic bread and roasted chicken wings.

We spent 5 days in Tallinn. We explored most of the city in the first three. The other two were workdays, so we went out at night and kept it simple. It felt like a magical workcation for us. On the last day it snowed a little, the streets were quieter, and the Old Town looked even prettier.

Tallinn felt cozy, quiet, and beautiful. Getting around was easy and most places were within walking distance. March was cold but manageable with layers. It's a place we would return to.

From there, we took a ferry across the Baltic Sea to Helsinki to spend the rest of our workation. Read about that part of the trip in our Helsinki blog.